The Wines and Spirit of Sonoma County

The rolling hills, the chilly fog, the glimmering sunlight dancing on grape leaves.

Oh Sonoma. As I breathe in your sweet air I’m reminded of why I moved to the West Coast. Life digresses, time stands still. I stare out the car window almost expecting to spot a shepherd with his flock gracing the horizon, like they do outside small villages in southern Italy. Instead, miles and miles of grapes. Pinot, Chardonnay, Zinfandel, Merlot. Grapes of contrasting size and color find a nesting place in the myriad of microclimates that give Sonoma wines their unique charm.

I am no sommelier, but I do know how to plan a glorious day of wine tasting and picnicking in Sonoma Valley. The list below is far from complete, but contains a generous mix of both high-end and affordable wineries in California’s less-traveled, laid back corner of wine country.

Start your day at a Farmers’ Market
Before heading north on the 101, Claudia and I fervently scurried through the Temescal farmers’ market while our boys grabbed egg sandwiches and coffee. Soft, subtle, herb-rolled Pierce Pt. cheese from Cowgirl Creamery, freshly baked walnut bread from Feel Good Bakery, salty olive bread from Phoneix Pastificio, pepperoni from Prather Ranch, garlic rosemary almonds and a bunch of sweet late season grapes – ideal companions to the cured black olives and fresh olive oil I picked up from Nash himself at the downtown Oakland market the day before. We’re set. All we need is a bottle of vino from whichever winery lovingly offers a picnic table and a beautiful view.

The Wines of Sonoma
A slipshod, pencil-written itinerary and the trusty GPS led the way. If you’ve been dying to visit a certain winery, go early in the day as afternoons have a tendency to drift out from under you. It happens. Especially in Sonoma.

Pellegrini Family Vineyards, Santa Rosa
Our tasting began at Pellegrini, where Alejandro and I are wine club members. Like many Italian families in Sonoma, the Pellegrini’s have been making wine since the repeal of prohibition in 1933. They own three vineyards across the Russian River and Alexander Valleys, and bottle their wines under three labels: Pellegrini, Olivet Lane, Cloverdale Ranch. My favorite, which is also their priciest at $45 per bottle, is the 2006 Milestone, a poetic blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petite Verdot, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. Pellegrini offers free tastings daily at their “Tuscan-Style” Olivet Lane winery.
Varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, two red blends, classic Old Clone Zinfandel, Sauvignon Blanc, Carignan and Dry Rosé.
What we brought home: Three bottles of Milestone (wine club shipment)

Michel-Schlumberger, Dry Creek Valley
We ventured next to Dry Creek Valley. Here, the distinct microclimate produces robust wines different from those found elsewhere in Sonoma. Similar to the Bordeaux region in France, Dry Creek Valley experiences extreme jumps in temperature during growing season; high by midday and low at night – lower than neighboring regions of Sonoma. Michel-Schlumberger, whose wines are all made from their estate-grown organic grapes, sits on the western edge of the Valley, next to the winding waters of wine creek. Because of its unique location, Michel-Schlumberger is the sole winery in Dry Creek Valley to grow fickle Pinot Noir grapes, which they started bottling in 2002.  We tried their 2008 Pinot Blanc, which was universally loved, and purchased a 2006 Pinot Noir to savor with our picnic – which we did. Thoroughly. Tastings run $10 per person, and appointments are required (although we snagged one last minute).
Varietals: Pinot Blanc, Syrah, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot

Zichichi Family Vineyard,  Dry Creek Valley
Zichichi is a small vineyard with big wines. They are so small, that often they sell out of popular wines during barrel-tastings, before they make it into bottles. Aging their wines for 20 months in French and American Oak, their Petit Syrahs and Zins are opulent and layered with intense character.  We tried a couple of varietals in the tasting room, including a bold 2006 Old Vine Zin, and 2007s out of barrels in the back. Tastings run $5 per person. We resisted buying a case of futures. Thinking back, I’m not sure if that was a wise decision.

Pedroncelli Winery, Dry Creek Valley
Reason #38 to stray from predetermined plans in Sonoma: recommendations. A couple we met at Pellegrini suggested we visit Pedroncelli, and I’m so glad they did. As their mélange of fine wines poured into our tasting glasses, we were charmed by Jon Brown with stories Pedroncelli’s lengthy past (dating back to 1927). This is what wine tasting is about. Not only the experience of savoring new flavors, but laughing while you do so. Nothing, except maybe a snooty waiter, turns me off quicker than pretension and snobbery at a winery. We stayed at Pedroncelli for over an hour, tasting blends, zins, cabs, fresh olive oil and a delicious port made with four types of Portuguese grapes, now grown on their Dry Creek Valley vineyard. Once again, we were treated to a free tasting.
Variatels: Petite Syrah, Zinfandal, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Rosé, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Vintage Port
What we brought home: 2004 Vintage Port, 2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007 Mother Clone Zinfandal, Pedroncelli extra virgin olive oil

Locals Tasting Room, Geyserville
“Sip. Sip. Sip,” Diane from Locals says, as she pours each of us our third flight; Italian varietals made by Sonoma winemakers. You can try and buy over 70 wines from 10 vineyards at Locals – a very different tasting experience than visiting individual wineries. Think of it as a crash course in local wines.

Each flight consisted of three tastes, allowing us to directly compare varietals: Pinot Noir, Barbara, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. There were others, but at this point my goal of being a responsible wine-taster was as likely as my childhood fantasy of becoming a trapeze performer. Tisk, tisk, I know, but I am not comfortable spitting perfectly good wine into a murky bucket. It just doesn’t seem right. Locals’ extensive tastings are free and offered daily.
What we purchased: 2008 Ramazzotti Grenache Noir, 2007 Ramazzotti Raffinto Super Tuscan Blend, 2008 Hawley Late Harvest Zinfandel

With my senses tingling and eyes heavy, we climbed on the 101 South and left beautiful Sonoma behind us. As I drifted off to sleep in the back seat of the car, I thought about how lucky I was to live near this magical place, and to have such wonderful friends to share it with.

Tagged as: Travel